Ladakh bike tour 2017

Seldom did I think that this trip would be the most memorable of my life, an adventure I least expected and which exceeded what I had thought before by leaps and bounds.

I had always wanted to go to Ladakh since the day I purchased a Royal Enfield Classic 500 way back in 2009.  Around February 2017 I came across a Youtube channel 'Mumbiker Nikhil'  who is a professional video logger and shoots his biking trip videos. I got hooked and that inspired me to plan this trip immediately. I finally decided to go to Ladakh on  my bike in April 2017. I contacted TripNme which are an adventure consultant company and decided to go on June 22 for a 14 day trip.

Initial preparation

I prepared myself by weight training and swimming to improve stamina. I did a single day ride from Pune to Mumbai and back (stopping only for food  to test endurance). I also did a full riding gear dry run couple of times to ensure I am comfortable wearing the heavy armor. I had a classic 500 bullet which I refurbished for the ride with off road tyres and lots of other gadgets. Unfortunately it was lost in a fire incident while transporting to Srinagar. Hence a decision was made to rent a Royal Enfield Himalayan at Srinagar for the rest of the ride.

Riding gear

Bike : RE Himalayan                

Jacket, pants and tank bag: Rynox with thermal lining and rain liners 

Gloves : Cramster and RE Tundra (for extreme cold and water proofing)

Helmet :VEGA Boolean

Shoes: Solace 

Action cam : SJCAM 5000

Charger :CoolNut 20000 mah

Saddle bags : Cramster

Riding team

Our team consisted of 9 riders (Amit, Manoj, Hemant, Kaushal, Ninad, Abhishek,Venu,Sarika) from different parts of India with a mechanic (Kakey), a driver (Tsering a.k.a TD)  and a tour manager (Greeshma).  The mechanic and driver were in a backup van. One of the riders was Ajay who was our team lead. He had been to Ladakh twice and was an experienced adventurer.

Trip map

We covered a total distance of around 2050 km starting from Srinagar. The route we followed was 

Srinagar - Kargil  - Leh - Nubra valley - Diskit  - Hunder - Turtuk - Leh - Pangong Tso - Leh - Sarchu - Manali - Mandi - Chandigarh

Route map

Day 1 : June 22, Srinagar landing

I landed at Srinagar airport and went to the hotel Al-Hamra in a taxi. It was a Friday and most shops were closed due to a strike called out by the separatists. While en-route I saw many CRPF pickets strategically placed. All armed with guns and armor. You could feel the tension in the air and it reminded me of the 90's film ROJA. Thankfully nothing untoward happened. I got my first glimpse of the famous Dal lake - made a legend by Shammi Kapoor - Sharmila Tagore in Kashmir Ki Kali.Rest of the team was already there and we spent time getting to know each other. 

Dal lake

Later in the evening we went to the famous Shalimar gardens. It is an exquisite example of Mughal architecture characterized by rising steps and fountains as seen in the picture.

Shalimar garden

 It was already later when we came back and retired after a sumptuous meal.

Day 2 : Srinagar city and trip preparation

This was a buffer day and we were joined by rest of the riders who arrived late. Our rented bikes along with the backup vehicle too came in the morning. I saw my black Himalayan and the moment I rode it; felt a connection with the bike. I did some test rides in the town to ensure I get familiar with the workings  and also found few minor issues which the mechanic Kakey promptly fixed. Later we went to Parimahal a castle built by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan located on a hill.

A view from Parimahal

It gives an amazing birds eye view of Srinagar and Dal lake. In the evening we rode through Srinagar as a group for the very first time. We mostly drove on the banks of Dal lake till the petrol station and refuelled our bulls. Later we had a great Shikara ride.

Kababs on shikara!

There is a floating market within the lake where you can purchase stuff as well as eat food. The Kahva tea and the kababs were amazing. Later at the hotel we had a team meeting where we discussed the next day's plan, what to wear, what terrain to expect, bike formation, signalling and general rules of engagement. This was to be repeated every night till the end of the trip. It was decided we would have a 6 am start next day.

Day 2 : Srinagar to Kargil - 202 km 

Feature highlights : Sonmarg, Amarnath yatra, Zoji la, Kargil war memorial

Go-time!

This was the D-Day of our ride.  I hardly slept at night  due to the excitement and got up at 4.30 am in the morning. After breakfast and the mandatory bike checks all the riders geared up for our very first day of serious biking. It was extraordinary sight to see the Royal Enfields and  hear the thump. We looked like an army unit setting on a mission to conquer the mighty Himalayas. 

Sonmarg

While en-route we passed through many small villages and came across army units patrolling the highways. We had our first and only puncture  of the entire trip 10 km before Sonmarg. At Sonmarg we had a heavy breakfast. Sonmarg was very pretty and gave us our first glimpse of the Himalayas up close.

Amarnath yatra camp

A few km ahead  we came across camps for Amarnath yatra. Those looked  way down below and I realized for the first time how high we were climbing. Next was the mighty Zoji la. The word 'La' basically means a mountain pass. A mountain pass is one where you climb up from one direction and climb down from the other. 

Zoji la 

The topmost point of this journey is the pass. Zoji la was our first major challenge and tested our riding skills,. The road was extremely bad with sand, stones, loose gravel, water crossings, steep curves and ravines around. We made a very cautious progress and for the rest of 30+ km our speed hardly crossed 20 kmph. After crossing Zoji la we came across the famous snow point and went to Drass for a well deserved lunch.

Kargil war memorial

After spending an hour at Drass our next stop was the famous Kargil war memorial about 10 km from Drass. The memorial is at the foothills of Tiger Hill and Tololing where intense battles were fought in 1999 during the Kargil war with Pakistan. The experience is very moving and will moisten eyes of every patriot when one sees the graves of the brave soldiers who sacrificed their lives. This visit was a very emotional experience in the trip. The rest of the journey of around 100 km till Kargil was an exciting drive with steep mountains on one side and a river on the other to accompany us. We refueled petrol while entering Kargil and reached our hotel around 7 pm. We stayed at Rangyoul lodge for the night. Kargil is a very small, sleepy town with a central market area where most of the people would be found. We retired early at night. Next day we were going to enter Ladakh officially.

Day 3 : Kargil to Leh - 217 km 

Feature highlights : Mulbeck, Magnetic hill, Gurudwara pathar sahib, twisties

We were told that this would be the easiest route of the whole journey and it was true. The whole road was a riders paradise with nice,curvy and twisty sections where you could do some cornering with the bike.

Twisty roads

The road also had less traffic and was thoroughly enjoyable. Our first stop was Mulbeck where we saw a 2000 year statue of Buddha and had our first taste of Butter tea -  a pink colored tea made from yak butter. It tasted simply awesome and I could not help myself with just one!

Butter tea

Next we went to Lamayuru a town famous for it's monastery and Moonland - a natural formation which resembles moon's surface.

Lamayuru

We also passed through 2 mountain passes  Fotu la and Namika la as well.

High mountain passes

In the afternoon we had a nice cup of tea on a small hill surrounded by mountains. It was a sight to behold. On our way to the Magnetic hill we came across a straight road where we stopped to shoot a group video and clicked many pictures.

Few kms before magnetic hill

After a few km on this road we arrived at magnetic hill. The belief is that the hill has magnetic properties and pulls vehicles towards it. This is all a hoax and we decided not to waste time here. We saw many idiots trying to do off-roading on the hill with their Dusters. Half an hour later we arrived at Gurudwara pathar sahib a Sikh shrine built in 1517 to commemorate the visit of Guru Nanak to Leh. We had tea at the Langar and saw an interesting wall where different plaques were dedicated by various army units who had served in Ladakh.

Army epitaphs

After about an hour we entered Leh city. It was around 8pm and was already dark.

A night en-route Leh

We went straight to the home stay Tukchu palace skipping the petrol refuel as next day was to be spent at Leh.

Day 4 : Leh  city

We spent the entire day at Leh in order to get acclimatized to the height. The next day we were going to Khardung la which  is at a height of  around 19000 feet hence it was important for the body to get accustomed. All tourists are supposed to do this. In the morning we went to the Hall of Fame - an army museum situated near the airport. It has information , artifacts and memorabilia from all the wars India has fought since independence. It is not to be missed especially for those interested in the armed forces. 

Hall of fame war mueseum

Next we went to a monastery located on a hill overlooking the airport. It provided an awesome view of Leh city and we saw a C-130 Super Hercules military aircraft take off. It was huge and made a deafening sound. 

C-130 Super Hercules

We also saw a village where the shooting of Hritik Roshan's Lakshya was done. It is considered to be the longest village of Asia spanning a length of 10 km. In the afternoon we went to the market and had food at Wazwan restaurant which is quite popular. They have a great Kashmiri chicken dish called Wazwan that we tasted among other delicacies. After finishing food we went for shopping and ordered few hand woven T-shirts embroidered with a map of the route we had taken.  Except myself other riders purchased Gum boots since we were to encounter multiple water crossings throughout the remaining journey. I had RE rain covers hence decided to skip the Gum boots - a decision I would regret couple of days later. We retired early and were informed in the team meeting that the next day's ride would be tough and bumpy. We were asked to wear thermals for the first time as it would be very cold up at the top. Overall I found Leh to be a very beautiful and mystical city. The people are courteous and respectful with no apparent rush anywhere. The time felt to pass slowly in the city. Peaceful!  

Day 5 : Leh  to Nubra valley (Diskit) - 115kms

Feature highlights : Khardung la, Nubra valley

We started a bit late around 8 am. Although the distance was small we were to pass Khardung la; the highest motorable road in the world. Leh is located at around 11000 feet and Khardung la is at 19000 feet approximately. Hence one climbs nearly 3 km vertically up in a span of 39 km; the distance from Leh to Khardung la (K-Top)  . Before reaching K-Top one has to pass through an army staging area called as South Pullu. The road till here is paved and well maintained. After this; till K-top and 15 km beyond; the road does not exist. It is made of loose sand, rocks, gravel, sharp turns, ice and water. 

Khardungla bad road

We found it more challenging then Zoji la. However the weather was sunny; hence the climb was without any problem. For the first time I was forced to switch from my regular mesh riding gloves to the special winter (Tundra) gloves I was carrying; due to the extreme cold; as we started climbing up. My hands became almost numb due to the cold and with the constant application of clutch. However once we reached K-Top it gave us a sense of achievement and elation. It was an amazing feeling to reach at the top. 

Khardungla top

We took pictures at the sign board and then started our descent towards North Pullu staging area 15 km down. En-route myself and another fellow rider Venu decided to play in the snow for a while. We parked our bikes and threw snow at each other. It was fun. 

Icy world : Khardungla top

I fell twice while descending down from K-top due to loose gravel. However those were minor falls.We reached North Pullu in about an hour and had tea. We waited for our other riders to join in; before proceeding to Khalsar located around an hour and a  half further. In 2015 there was a major flood and landslide in this area and the attached picture is a testimony of the devastation. 

Khalsar cloud burst remanants

After a decent lunch we saw the first glimpse of the famous Nubra valley. It was a mesmerizing scene. We found ourselves in the middle of a straight road  accompanied by flat land for miles; as far as the eye could see and shrouded by tall mountains all around.    

Amazing view : Nubra valley

There was a huge waterfall at a  distance and the partial sun rays made for a heavenly experience. Neither words, pictures or videos can do justice to this majestic experience. We also encountered a sand storm which affected visibility for a while. 

Vast expanse : Nubra valley

After crossing the valley we arrived at Diskit our final destination of the day. Diskit is a very small town which gets electricity only for 4 hr between 7 pm and 11 pm. We relaxed that night and partied late as the next day was not going to be hectic or so it seemed.

Day 5 : Nubra valley (Diskit)  to Turtuk and back - 200kms

Feature highlights : The road, THOISE, Turtuk village, Pakistan

We started around 8 am as the journey was not that long. We filled petrol at the sole petrol pump en-route and started moving towards Turtuk. It was raining and it did not stop till the time we returned back. The road to Turtuk is out of an alien landscape. It transports you to a different land. The imposing mountains, rock carved roads underneath them, water gushing over the sides create an overall sense of escape that enchants oneself.

Road to Turtuk

For long stretches I was driving alone on this road due to the gap between the riders. It was one of the most memorable experiences of my trip. Again words cannot convey the exhilarating feel of that journey. Around 25 km from Diskit is THOISE military base (no photography allowed). It has one of the biggest air fields I have seen and runs parallel to the road. It is a major supply nerve for Indian army stationed in the Siachen and Pakistani border areas. We passed through various army units which had there home base along the road. Some of them had colorful names like 'Snow Cats', 'Ferocious five', 'Excellent Eleventh', 'Gallant 25', 'Galidiators', 'Ek sau gyara chakh de yaara' etc.  The might of the Indian army is very much visible and impresses you a lot.

Ferocious 5 : Army unit transporting Bofors 

 I would recommend anyone with impressionable kids to take this road and get them a glimpse of the Indian army. We arrived  at a bridge and were told to be careful. This was because the portion beyond it was in Pakistan till India captured it in 1971. We were warned not to stop in a village called Bogdan which was a bit infamous for hostile locals. We passed through the village without incident but I had a close shave with few college age kids who deliberately tried to block my route. After almost 5 hours we arrived at Turtuk. We parked our bikes near the end of the road  and went to a small hotel 'Rangyool' to have tea. It was cold and we enjoyed the hot cuppa. Once done we entered into the village after crossing a small bridge.

Turtuk bridge

The village was unlike what you find back home . There was a very small road just enough for couple of persons to walk flanked by houses and small farms. We spent sometime before entering into a hotel where we had lunch. The green tea was especially worth mentioning along with a sweet dish made from natural apricots.

Hot green tea

One of the owners also played songs for us as he was a very good singer. After finishing lunch we decided to take a walk in the village. The locals showed us the bunkers used in the 1999 Kargil war.

Kargil war : makeshift bunkers 

We also saw Pakistani army posts via the binoculars. Due to the intense fog we could barely see the flag or soldiers but the outlines of their posts were visible.

Pakistani outposts : hidden behind the snow

The people of Turtuk are very warm and friendly and the whole experience was great. After bidding farewell to our hosts we started back on our return trip to Diskit. It was enjoyable as before and in 3 hours we reached Hunder famous for it's sand dunes and double humped camel rides.

Hunder sand dunes

It was here we got the bad news. Owing to a snowstorm at Khardung la no tourist vehicles had arrived from Leh that day. Due to this the camels were not present. These camels are wild and the people catch them in the morning for the tourists and release them back in the desert at dusk. We could not see any as they had released them in the afternoon due to the lack of tourists. We did catch a cultural dance program showing Ladakhi culture before coming back to the hotel.

Ladakhi women : Folk dance

It was around 8.30 pm and despite being just 180 kms our journey took 8 driving hours due to the road. We retired early praying that the road would open up at Khardung la.  Overall one of the best days of the trip.

Day 6 : Nubra valley (Diskit)  to Leh - 115kms

Feature highlights : Avalanche , K-top descent

It was raining hard when we started our ride around 7am. We filled up the tanks and went almost non-stop till North Pullu barring a tea break in between. We reached around 9.30 am and were informed that Khardung la was closed due to snowfall. We decided to put ourselves in a small canteen and were there till 2pm. We saw many other biker groups do the same. At 2 pm we came to know that the army was allowing traffic to move towards Leh. They recommended chains on 4 cars and asked bikers to go at their own risk. We deliberated on whether we should go or not and finally decided to take the risk. It was better then getting holed up in the canteen. We had a team meeting where we discussed how we should move ahead. It was decided that as there would be heavy snow; no brakes would be used while moving forward. The bike had to be controlled by legs and using engine braking (gear change). We also decided to move in a close formation in case anyone needed help. This meeting felt like the briefing they show in the movies before the beginning of an army operation. I could feel the tension and the general atmosphere was edgy.  I decided not to wear my glasses as the fog would make it difficult to see; a decision I later regretted due to the snow reflections. I resetted the trip meter on my Himalayan bike and knew it was 15kms till K-Top and further 12 km down to South Pullu - the safety point. In between  anything could happen.The ascent till K-top was uneventful although it was very foggy, slippery, wet  and snowing slightly. 

Icy patch : K top ascent from North Pullu

I was very careful and did not apply my brakes at all on the multitude of snow patches that lined the road. I was constantly monitoring the trip meter and when it reached around 14.6 km (just 400 meters before K-Top) our progress grinded to a halt. This was  due to a small avalanche that blocked the road ahead. We parked our vehicles on the wayside and waited for the snow to be removed. The other cab drivers asked us to accompany them to K-Top by walking the whole distance. They said it would be risky to wait because more avalanches could happen anytime. 

By this time I just had one fellow rider with me (Kakey) as other riders were a bit ahead. We started walking towards K-Top. It was an ascent - a steady climb in the snow  and each step made it difficult because of the lack of oxygen. It was really grueling and I could feel the weakness creeping in. I was not carrying water as I kept my tank bag in the backup van  to travel light. This made it more difficult. By the time I reached the army canteen I was completely exhausted and thought I might pass out. In fact my eyes were automatically closing due to complete exhaustion.  Kakey helped me in this hour of crisis and I would always be very grateful for his support . I drank some hot lemon tea and sat for around 15 mins; only after which I started feeling better. During this time the snow was removed and the road cleared for travel. Luckily for us the army allowed vehicles to travel towards Leh hence we had the first right of passage. I hurried down to my bike and treaded cautiously as there was nothing but snow on the road. There was a biker from another group in front of me who kept falling on the ice. I helped him couple of times and told him not to use brakes but he won't listen. As we crossed K-top the descent started and it became more difficult to control the bike on the snow as now we had to counter gravity. It really tested all my biking skills and leg strength. I used my boots as rudders to slow down and hardly changed gears. I saw many bikers falling down and many of them gave up. They loaded there bikes on trucks and sat in those . I felt pity for them but continued the travel. As we descended down; the snow gave way to flowing water and deep pools of slush . After negotiating those we ran into intense fog where the visibility was hardly few feet. By this time I had rejoined out main spearhead bikers and we started moving as a single unit. After moving with our heart in the mouth suddenly the road became good and we heaved a sigh of relief. We were joined by other biking groups and all of us waived at each other and thanked the almighty for this escape. We reached South Pullu and were jumping up and down with joy for making it alive and what could be considered one of the toughest 27 kms of our life. We ate breakfast to our hearts content and continued towards Leh. I can never forget the first sight of Leh with the sun lightning it up in a small patch; thousands of feet below;  while Khardung la was all seeped in darkness and snow. The remaining journey was pleasant and we reached the hotel safely. 

Day 7 : Leh  to Pangong Lake- 225kms

Feature highlights : Chang la, the lake

Despite the grueling journey the day before I was very excited to travel to Pangong lake made famous by the climax scenes from 3 idiots. The day was sunny and the weather was pleasant for a long ride. We started around 8am and our first stop was 40 kms from Leh called Karu. 

Karu en-route Pangong : break time

We had our breakfast and proceeded towards Chang la. Enroute the main road was closed for some distance and we had to take a makeshift path. This was no easy road. It was just sand and rocks with a very steep incline. Luckily I was able to negotiate it without falling down. The road to Chang la was better initially but progressively deteriorated as we started climbing to the top. At one point it was just rocks and nothing else. The army rebuilds it every year but the snow and rainfall damages them. We were all elated  once we reached Chang la. Chang la is the third highest motorable road in the world. I will always remember the board sign which says "Himank welcomes you to the Mighty Chang la". I feel awesome even today (don't know why) when I see that in the pictures. Himank is the Border road organization - an army unit responsible for maintaining the roads in the Himalayas. Chang la has the worlds highest restaurant but we did not eat anything as we were behind schedule. 

Chang la top

After clicking pictures we started our descent - the descent from Chang la was  bad due to the roads and we came across a very big water crossing. It was challenging as compared to the ones we saw at Turtuk. After about an hour  we reached Tangste where we had a tea break. We skipped lunch so as to reach Pangong lake early. The road from Tangste to the lake is very beautiful. The road runs through grasslands flanked by mighty mountains and one can see various wild animals like horses, lemurs and yaks roaming freely in hordes. 

Amazing road : en-route to Pangong

Yaks

The road is also very well maintained and is a paradise to drive. We reached Pangong lake in about an hour. The first glimpse was breathtaking. 

Spectacular Pangong lake

Besides the blue water the reflection of the mountains makes this an unforgettable sight. You can spend hours here just staring at the lake and won't feel boredom creeping in. We had our lunch at the lake cafe and then proceeded to a spot where the shooting of 3 Idiots took place. The actual shooting was done at a different site few hundred meters away. Boating is not allowed at the lake as it borders China. In fact more then 2/3rd of the lake lies in China. We clicked few pictures before going to our night stay -  a wooden tent place. 

Tent stay

By the time we checked in; it was damn cold and we were shivering head to toe. At night we had a bonfire and lots of fun with music and songs.  Pangong is also the place for star gazing and for the first time in my life I saw the milky way in all it's splendid grandeur. A sight to behold and cherish for eons!

Day 8 : Pangong Lake to Leh - 225kms

Feature highlights : Army convoys , Shanti stupa

We got up pretty early to take a glimpse of the sunrise. It was spectacular. 

Sunrise at Pangong

After finishing breakfast we started our return journey. We had to take the same road back. Around 30 kms from the lake we came to a spot we had missed before where they had shot for Katrina-SRK's Jab Tak Hai Jaan - Shahrukh's movie introduction scene. 

Jab tak hai jaan

Rest of the journey till Chang la was uneventful but very enjoyable. Once we reached Chang la we encountered an army convoy of around 25 big trucks. I overtook all of them on the narrow roads. It was a harrowing experience as a simple mistake could land the rider thousands of feet below. However I enjoyed it and the army drivers were very helpful to let me pass  at the correct spots. At one spot a bolero banged the rear of my bike. Luckily the speed was low and besides a bit of shake up I did not get hurt. I gave the most menacing look to the guy who apologized to me. I let go the whole thing. During this overtaking maneuver I lost contact with my fellow riders and was way ahead of them. I decided not to wait (as that would have meant the trucks passing me again) and reach our pre-decided meeting point Karu which was around 50kms from Chang la top. I was the first to reach there around 1pm and in about 30 mins the rest of the team arrived. After having a filling lunch we started towards Leh and reached around 3.30 pm. Some of us went for shopping and later in the day we all went to see the Shanti Stupa. 

Shanti stupa

It offered a fantastic 360 degree views of Ladakh and the surrounding mountains. I could also see the formidable Khardung la at a distance and  I thought about the great escape we had couple of days back. We also spotted Tibetan dogs at Shanti Stupa cafe. They looked very adorable with all the hair on them. 

Adorable Tibetan dog

At night we retired early as the next two days were going to be grueling.  

Day 9 : Leh to Sarchu - 270km

Feature highlights : Tanglang la, Moore plains, Gata loops, Tents

This was going to be the longest day of the whole journey. We started around 7.30 am  and reached Karu again. Karu is a junction point where one road goes to Pangong and other goes to Manali. In about  half  an hour we reached Upshi - our breakfast point. We spent around 45 mins eating parathas and drinking tea before proceeding further. The road was simply awesome as we started climbing Tanglang la - the second highest mountain pass in the world. We were surprised to find such a road after our experience at Khardung la and Chang la. 

Road to Tanglang la

In a couple of hours we reached the top of  Tanglang la and had the best butter tea of the entire trip in a small tent hotel. There we met some soldiers from Maharashtra with whom we had a good chat. 

Tanglang la top

A view from top : Tanglang la

After clicking pictures we started our descent on the excellent paved road. Very soon we found ourselves on Moore plains - a big attraction for any biker. Moore plains is a flat 40 km long landscape flanked by tall mountains on all sides with a paved road crisscrossing through it. It is heavenly to drive. Check the GIF below. 

Fast forward : Moore plains

The pictures do not any justice to convey the sheer expanse of this natural wonder. We saw many wild animals roaming around and clicked them. At the end of Moore plains is  a natural sand and rock formation located adjacent to a river basin, This looked like Grand Canyon to me. 

Natural formations : End of Moore plains

Amazing cave : Just ahead of Pang

After this we stopped at Pang for our lunch. Pang is a small military outpost and truck stop. The road from Pang to Gata loops was one of the longest continuous stretch of  bad road of the whole trip; running for about 50 km and having very less buffer on the sides. It took us around 2 hrs to cover this distance. 

Bad road from Pang to Sarchu

We passed two more high altitude passes Lachung la and Nakee la. 

High mountain passes

Some interesting points were the weirdly named Whisky nala which was a water crossing minus any Whisky. Few kilometers ahead of Nakee la we came to the starting point of the world famous Gata loops - 21 sharp hair pin road bends. It was always my dream to ride them since the time I first saw the pictures. 

Gata loops

Gata loops are also famous for a haunted ghost story and at bend #3 one can find the offerings of water bottles and cigarettes to the ghost. I took a picture and went ahead without wasting much time at the spot. There are shortcuts that can be used to avoid few bends but they are made of rough gravel and have a  steep descent . I took one and barely managed not to fall over.  From here the road till Sarchu was good with occasional bad patches. By the time we were 10 km from our night stay tents I realized the headlights of my bike were not working. It was already getting dark and I completed the remaining journey in the light provided by the backup vehicle. On the curves I was in total darkness and it was scary. It was bone crushing cold  night in our tents despite wearing thermals. 

Tent stay at Sarchu

The tents had double sided zip locks to prevent any air to pass through.  However it was a wonderful ride and supremely satisfying.

Day 10 : Sarchu to Manali- 230km

Feature highlights : Suraj Tal, ZingZingBar, Rohtang la, Solang valley

We started around 8 am and were told that this could turn out to be a very tough ride. The main challenge being Rohtang la. Just a week before a section of the road was washed away due to cloud burst. There is also a lot of honeymoon traffic while going towards Manali. With this in mind we started our journey and soon encountered a very bad patch of road till Baralacha la - another high mountain pass. We saw lots of trucks moving in either direction and sensed this was a busy day. After crossing Baralacha la we came across Suraj Tal - a beautiful pristine lake. 

Suraj Tal

It is the world's third highest lake. Few km ahead was Zingzingbar; famous for a challenging water crossing and scenic views.  We took a  small tea break there. The whole road is famous for multiple water crossings and we encountered many ; in fact the most on the entire trip. Luckily it was not raining and we crossed them without  much trouble. As we moved past another small lake Deepak Tal; we saw a Mercedes Benz car lying precariously upside down in a stream. Luckily no was injured. 

Accident!

A grim reminder of how dangerous these roads could be!. We moved ahead on the curvy, sandy, pot holed road which we were used to by now and reached Jispa around 1pm. The landscape gradually changed from the rocky terrain to lush green valleys with mighty waterfalls. Welcome to Himachal Pradesh!. 

Keylong: Greenary

We had a lunch in a small restaurant at Keylong. While enroute we saw the construction of the Rohtang tunnel scheduled to completed in 2019 and would cut the distance to Manali by 40km. Soon we started our ascent towards Rohtang la. The road was indeed bad but since no rains were present we could ascend without much sweat. 5 km from the top  we had to wait for half an hour because of a fresh landslide. Around 4.30 pm we reached the top of Rohtang la and were surprised to find no fog, rain or tourists. Being a Tuesday no tourist vehicles are allowed from Manali side. The whole Rohtang la was for us to enjoy. 

Rohtang top

We stayed for almost 30 mins before commencing our descent towards Manali through Solang valley. The road was picturesque with dazzling view of Manali city, waterfalls and the enchanting greenery. We encountered another famous water crossing Rani nalla and in about 2 hrs were inside Manali city. We passed through the main city quickly and reached our hotel Keylinga Inn (the best of the whole journey) around 7pm. After a quick shower we went to Manali market and came back late at night. All dozed off as it was a tiring day.

Day 11-12 : Manali to Chandigarh- 308km

We had to return our rented bikes from Manali. Kakey and TD loaded the bike in their back up van and went back to Leh. The other riders who had their own bikes went ahead to Mandi where they transported their bikes through GATI  couriers to their homes. We started a bit late and traveled the final leg in Innovas to Chandigarh. We celebrated the end of our ride at night promising each other that someday we will go for another one. The next day we boarded our flights and came back to our homes. I was the first to reach and felt great happiness meeting my family.

Epilogue

Overall it was the best trip of my life. Ladakh is definitely a place to visit and all the adjectives describing this majestic and magical place are true.  One can go to Ladakh in a car but on a bike it is a much evolving experience and there is no better bike to do this royally then the Royal Enfield.

P.S. : Some of the images are from fellow rider Amit. He had a DSL-R camera and I decided to choose them for better quality